I find it difficult to move past some of the preconceptions I have about people who wear Rolex watches. Not in the negative sense completely—it is easy to loath those trust funders who wear them because they are trying to get laid or show off how much money they have—but also in the sense of those who I respect who wear them. Men and women who have done things in their lives: climbed mountains, explored the world, worked stressful and demanding jobs, made great and impactful movies, or became successful doing what they believe in while wearing a Rolex. These people weigh more heavily on my mind than any Seattle tech millionaire who doesn’t have a clue as to what exactly makes their Rolex watch so special beyond the fact that he (or she) knows it is a status symbol. There is more to Rolex than a sign of financial wealth. I wear one and I am not financially wealthy by any means of the word.
A Rolex watch is worth buying for the same reason any other mechanical watch is: it tells the time, looks good, and runs well. But Rolex does things a little differently than any other watch company. Where some say they do R&D, Rolex is proven to do R&D. They do not hide what they do to make things like the case or bracelet comfortable, durable, and completely functional. They do not shout about it from the rooftops either; they do instead of talk, as a SEAL friend of mine always says. They implement changes when they are required, regardless of fanfare, and with the single purpose of making the watch perform better. I do not question that my Rolex will work if I fall down a mountain, get stuck in the freezing cold, or smack it against rocks. It works, and will survive as long as I can survive, and even if I don’t in some situations.
I appreciate what Rolex does for the world. The philanthropic work they fund is important and has real-world impacts. It could be for show or marketing, but even if it is, the results of their financing still has a net-positive impact on whatever expedition they back or person they chose to work with.
The hype on social media about Rolex is fine. Yes, it allows the slack jawed yokels of the world to show off who they wish they were in a fake digital medium by wearing a watch (or saying they are wearing one), but why should we watch lovers let this get to us? These people are fishing for something they can’t find within themselves, and who among us hasn’t been guilty doing this at some point in their lives? (I think of the cars, suits, guns, and clothes I bought in an effort to try and prove myself. None of these things worked).
Sure, the demand makes it difficult to walk into a store and buy one sometimes, but I happen to think patience is a good thing. None of these factors should reduce the legitimacy of the product Rolex makes or the joy a watch lover can feel when they put one on their wrist. If it does, then I am sorry because you are missing out on the rare joys of life in a time when many things have to be taken far too seriously.
I would challenge anyone who hates Rolex because of their success to take a tactical pause and try and appreciate what this company has done for us watch lovers. It is a long list, and at the top of it is the new Oyster Perpetual 36mm. With this piece, Rolex is giving watch lovers and casual watch buyers the opportunity to own a time piece which is timeless. It is a statement watch because it is not trying to make a statement. It can be worn by people from all walks of life without worrying about appearing conceited or arrogant. It fits on a mountain side in the Idaho wilderness just as well as it does in a coffee shop in Boston. It never feels like it is lacking in performance or style. It is the perfect partner: open, beautiful, true to form, classy, and has no issues getting a little dirty in order to spice up life.
Like most of the reviews here, this will be a multi-part review conducted over a few months (and years, I have no plans on parting with this watch) as I live life and wear the watch all over the Idaho backcountry, Boston, and any other place I chose to go. In this article I will evaluate the watch based on what I believe it offers. I will discuss the case and how it feels, the bracelet and what makes it one of the best bracelets I have ever worn, legibility, lume, durability, and accuracy.
My First Watch Below 40mm
Thanks to David at Hal Davis Jewelers in Boise, Idaho, I have the opportunity to spend some serious time with this brand-new for 2020 Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36mm with the black dial. This is, from what I have been told, the first OP 36 to be received by an AD in the state of Idaho and I feel very fortunate to have it. I made the trip to Boise not expecting to leave with this watch, and it hasn’t left my wrist much since I put it on. At first, I was concerned about the size when David handed it to me. I had been wearing my Black Bay 41mm for months and I was accustomed to the size and heft of that watch. The OP felt like a toy on my wrist and looked far too small. However, the weight and thickness were so significantly less than the Black Bay that I could not help but to be impressed. The store had received the watch less than an hour before I walked in, and I was very fortunate to be able to leave with it (that’s why I always go watch shopping early in the morning). The watch fit perfectly right out of the display case; no addition or subtraction of links was necessary. I took this as a sign and did the deal. We were on a road trip to Oregon that day, and as I drove, I could not stop looking down at my wrist. It was a different watch than what I was used to. I felt like maybe I had given into an impulse and would regret buying the watch. This feeling faded though as I drove, and by the time we made it to Bend, I was in love.
The OP is light and so comfortable. I like how thin the case and the way the lugs curve allows it to sit perfectly on my wrist no matter my activity level. The case is curved in all the right places and it does not interfere with my ability to bend my wrist. This may sound like somewhat of a trivial thing, but when I am hiking over the rocks and hills in central Idaho, the ability to bend my wrist as I move around is very important. The same goes with shooting. I do not normally shoot on a dedicated gun range. I prefer to make my range in the mountains and hills using whatever natural features I can find to support my rifle and having the ability to flex my wrist when I am pulling the trigger from award positions is essential. Many watches get in the way of full wrist mobility but this one does not. It slips under the cuff of my winter jackets easily and never gets pushed forward like my larger Black Bays do. It is easy to slide my gloves over the watch as well which is important when it is below zero outside.
The oyster bracelet is fascinating. The engineering involved in making this bracelet fit and work the way it does is fascinating for me to try and imagine. Never have I worn a bracelet that fit as well and comfortably. The design of the links and how they fit around my wrist is one reason, the other is the taper of the links from the end link to the clasp.
Why more companies do not do this with their bracelets is confusing. All of the Omegas I have owned suffered from an extreme lack of bracelet taper and did not stay in my collection because of this. The same goes for my Tudors, although I find their bracelet’s more comfortable than the Omega ones I have had.
The quality and durability of the Rolex oyster bracelet is well known, and it makes me worry much less than I did when I was wearing my Grand Seiko and its cheap feeling and flimsy-ish bracelet. I appreciate the easy link extension system, although I haven’t had to use it because the bracelet fits me perfectly.
The clasp pops into place securely with no play and it does not pop open unless I physically open it. No matter how I flex my wrist it won’t open up, unlike a lot of other bracelets I have worn before.
The dial is beautiful and simple. Rolex is known for the superfluous amount of text they often put on their dials, but this suffers from none of that. The time is easy to read during day or night. I am used to dive watches and the copious amount of lume they have, but I have no trouble reading this watch even at 4 in the morning. Quick glance time telling is great as well. I have yet to search to read the time when I look at it. The polished surfaces do not reflect too much light, and the crystal reduces glare very well. I couldn’t ask for anything more.
The 3230 movement is great. So far it keeps time at about 1.5 seconds fast per-day. The Chronergy Escapement, its increased ability to withstand shock and magnetism, as well as the overall durability, brings me a lot of mental peace when I think of wearing it in more rough environments. I try not to get too far into the weeds with movement nerdism because it is something so many other writers do better than I can, but I will say of all the things I was most excited about with this watch, the new movement was at the top of the list. It is exciting to know Rolex is counting to make their movements better, regardless of the marketing need or press they may get.
More reviews to come with this watch as the weather gets warmer and I am able to get out for longer periods of time. I will say that I have no desire to sell this watch and fully expect it to remain in my collection until I pass on. Let me know what you think of this new OP in the comments!
EscapementSV 